Burgos Spain - Land of Castles and Cathedrals

Recently while I was planning a trip for a client to Spain they mentioned going to a town I had never heard of before - Burgos. I let it slide in one ear and out the other until a couple weeks later someone else mentioned the same town. Then I had two young women asking about an extensive trip to Spain but they wanted to stop in other places rather than the big three - Madrid, Barcelona and Seville. So off I went on a quest for little known towns - at least to us!

Profile of Burgos

The lacy, gleaming white spires of its 13th-century Gothic Cathedral dominate the riverside city of Burgos and stand out as its most beautiful landmark. Burgos is halfway on the gourmet route between Ribera del Duero and La Rioja wine regions in Spain. The city is also a major stopping point on the “Saint James Pilgrimage”, an ancient Christian pilgrimage that has various routes beginning in France, Austria and the UK, which all finish in the glorious Spanish city of Santiago de Compostela. One of the grand dames of Castilla y León, the largely rural area that lies immediately northwest of Madrid, Burgos is an elegant, refined city whose often tumultuous history dates to 884. Known for its imposing Gothic monuments and powerful role in Spanish history, Burgos is a favorite destination for lovers of art, architecture and history. Its rich culinary tradition makes Burgos a wonderful place for food and wine lovers as well.

When Burgos was founded by the king of León in the 9th century, it was meant to be a northern stronghold of the growing Christian empire that would eventually become Spain. A few centuries later the city became the capital of the powerful kingdom of Castilla y León, a title it held until the more southern city of Valladolid became capital after the reconquest finalized in 1492. Still, as an important stop on both the Camino de Santiago (St. James pilgrimage route) and on the Madrid-France road, Burgos never lost relevance. During the Spanish Civil War, it was bestowed with the dubious honor of being declared the headquarters for General Franco's fascist troops.

With its grand riverside promenades, character-filled old quarter, and outstanding collection of churches and monasteries, modern-day Burgos offers plenty to keep you busy. Begin a visit to the old city by crossing the Santa María bridge and passing through the ornate Arco de Santa María, a gate adorned with so many towers and turrets that it seems like the entrance to a fairytale castle. The magnificent Gothic Cathedral is the requisite first stop. Be sure to visit the tomb of El Cid, the famed Spanish warrior, and the opulent "Gilded Staircase", a golden Renaissance staircase that links the nave with a ceremonial door at street level. Also noteworthy are the Constable's Chapel, a lavishly decorated chapel with a tomb, and the central dome, dubbed "The Crossing" and towering high above El Cid's tomb. A leisurely visit to this masterpiece could take the better part of a morning.

Yet Burgos is more than its Cathedral. Nearby you'll find the Casa del Cordón, a 15th-century palace-turned-bank. This is the spot where Isabel and Ferdinand met Columbus after his return from the New World on his second voyage. Also in the area are a wealth of churches bestowed with intricate carvings and sculptures, Renaissance artwork, and gilded altarpieces. There's no need to visit them all, but you might want to seek out highlights like the 14th-century Iglesia de Nuestra Señora La Antigua de Gamonal (famed for its Moorish-inspired Mudéjar portal) or the 13th-century Gothic Iglesia de San Esteban. Just beyond the city proper are two lovely Carthusian monasteries, the Monasterio de Huelgas and the Cartuja de Miraflores.


So as you can see... when I visit Madrid this October I will be taking a day trip to the beautiful city of Burgos. :)

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